In View - by Frank Gabriel
A peek inside our stocking
this holiday season...
December 2006
Wheatgrass thick and lush for
a pair of local establishments
helping set the bar for healthier,
sustainable consumables in our area,
restaurant Drazil in Egg Harbor
Township and Luna Sea market in
Ocean City.
Drazil opened at the site of
what was formerly one of the area’s
raunchiest, badass bars, the 1400, just
West of the old Tilton Circle area. And
while we haven’t dined in-house as yet,
the take-out sampler we opted for one
perfect Saturday afternoon proved to be
as spot-on as it was certifiably organic.
We tried: portobella mushroom
with oddly-piquant walnut bbq sauce, a
savory dish of chicken strips over arugula
with lemon pepper pesto, Brazilian
shrimp atop wild rice with coconut and
mango chutney, and a spectacular,
creamy serving of black bean soup.
Flavored subtly with banana and
cilantro, this pureed broth was worth the
trip alone, and one of best versions of the
classic Latino favorite we’ve ever tried.
Luna Sea is a full-service
organic and natural food store, at the
corner of 10th and West, offering an
astonishing array of great products.
Whole grains, protein substitutes, teas,
and vitamin supplements share the tiny
multi-room space with fresh and frozen
foodstuffs, gourmet sodas, fruit smoothies,
cookies, and snacks.
This little market that could, in
its third full season, appears to have captured
the most opportune moment to ride
the crest of the growing organic wave.
A long, pleasant winter’s nap
for our favorite Italian-American restaurant
at the Jersey shore, Sea Isle City’s
superlative Basilico’s.
Since opening in 1999, owners
Scott Oliver and Vinson Powell have
built their business the old-fashioned
way; by providing creative, quality food
in abundant quantities at price points
that are closer to chain restaurants than
most upscale eateries they compete with.
It’s also worth mentioning that in our
humble opinion - and we are certifiable
Pizza Snobs - Basilico’s presently offers
the finest pies to be found anywhere in
the region.
Their pizza oven, imported
from Italy, is by itself worth a trip, with
rotating multiple levels that produce a
perfectly crisp authentic product.
In addition, Chef Oliver’s version
of polenta, blended with figs, is the
best we’ve ever sampled, anywhere. His
rustic brick of baked cornmeal, studded
with diced, sweet fruit, gets finished
with a fabulously sweet walnut
Romesco sauce.
There is a bit of irony with the
name, too. Sea Isle City old-timers will
remember that Basilico’s was originally
an Italian family restaurant called
Romano’s, which operated, successfully
at the same location for nearly two
decades in the 1970’s and’80’s.
Perhaps the chef was offering a
quiet, respectful homage to the facility’s
dining history when selecting the
accompaniment to this signature dish?
Either way, the pairing is nothing short
of spectacular.
Other highlights at Basilico’s
include a superb chicken entrée, pollo
ruscello, featuring proscuitto-wrapped
breast meat stuffed with a spinach/golden
raisin blend and Agnello Desiderio,
rack of lamb with bourbon sweet potato
puree. (In case you are wondering about
the appellation, this item is named in
honor of Len Desiderio, Sea Isle’s popular
Mayor and also a Cape May County
Freeholder.)
Like most barrier-island restaurants,
Basilico’s will remain open until
late-December and then darken its doors
for six weeks or so, reopening in time for
Valentine’s Day.
Sleep well, my friends, we’ll
look forward to enjoying your victuals
again in ’07.
Finally, for the Philadelphia
Eagles, a new head coach, preferably
not another one so closely resembling
Santa Claus.
We’ll start by giving Andy Reid
huge props. He played an enormous role
in revitalizing football in this area. The
decision to draft Donovan McNabb -
whether #5 returns successfully from his
most recent season-ending injury, or not
- ahead of everyone else’s choice, Texas
running back/walking disaster Ricky
Williams, will absolutely be regarded as
one of the best Draft Day gambles ever.
Reid has also kept the team afloat
through some admittedly arduous circumstances.
Yes, the Eagles, presently sitting
with a 6-6 record at the time of this
column, are still alive for the playoffs in
the laughably weak NFC.
However, the fact that they are
still even contending after painful, reeking
losses to Tampa Bay and Tennessee,
only serves to illustrate how the original
league has truly become the Junior
Varsity conference.
Making the playoffs ceased to
be the goal for Philadelphia after their
Super Bowl trip just two short years ago.
This team should be vying for home
field advantage throughout the playoffs,
not struggling to be better than .500.
Worse yet, the window is
quickly closing on much of their original
core of players.
Reid continues to seem baffled
by mid-game decisions and adjustments,
a recurring issue that has plagued the
team during his tenure.
This year, the Eagles have displayed
undisciplined, sloppy football,
and that is the responsibility of a coaching
staff.
To illustrate my point, three of
their five losses were directly precipitated
by awful, stupid penalties, one each
to Trent Cole, Hank Gaithers and Jerome
McDougle. (We’d really like to defend
the final of those three, but can’t.
The original call on McDougle,
for a flagrant face mask, was one of the most atrocious calls ever. But the Miami grad’s antics
after the call - including drop kicking the flag - were unprofessional,
inexcusable and certainly helped cost Philly the
game.)
Perhaps the only saving grace in this sorry season
will be the fact that neither of our most hated rivals, the
Cowboys and Giants, shall venture far in the playoffs.
Someone has to win the NFC East, but they will be
bounced very quickly by either Chicago or New Orleans or
perhaps Seattle, provided All Pro running back Shawn
Alexander does in fact return in full health.
Football - the sport most closely resembling organized
warfare - sometime requires a new direction. Doesn’t
that thought sound familiar, following the latest midterm
elections?
This holiday season, bid a hearty fare-thee-well to
Andy Reid, who will easily find himself a head-coaching job
with another franchise in need of extensive rehab. (Are you
listening, Matt Millen and the Detroit Lions?)
To you and yours, a happy, healthy, fruitful holiday
season.
Frank Gabriel may be reached at Thaibasil@AOL.com