TWO MUST-TRIES: MICKEY AND MINNIES & RICHLAND HOUSE...

October 2007

So what is it about Neil Elsohn that makes him such a good chef? Scratch that. A great chef, the best of them all. I am not sure and I am not going to ask him, because I don’t think he will tell me. I know this much. Meals at Mickey and Minnie’s in Galloway Township, where Neil is consulting in the kitchen, have been outstanding recently. Exceptional.

You should go. Maybe you should ask him, and maybe he will tell you.

What makes a seemingly good quality steak soar in flavor? What makes a salad worthy of one of those national magazines with the glossy color photos? What makes a simple order of mussels in red sauce so good that I remember it all week through such mundane tasks as paying bills, commiserating with family, and floating in the pool on a wacky noodle?

Ask Neil. Maybe he will tell you. But I doubt it. Neil Elsohn is irascible, and impatient at times, as are many artists. I can think of other things to say about him that define his talent, and the things that have affected him. He owned Water’s Edge restaurant in Cape May for two decades, and gained the respect of critics throughout the region. All of them listed Water’s Edge as among the best restaurants in the region, and some said it was the best of all.

The chef, who refers to himself as "Cheffy," battled challenges that all of us never hope to deal with. He survived a dangerous and radical cancer operation and has been cancer free. But his illness affected him in other ways, contributing to losses of his restaurant and his home, and led to other personal battles, much of which he described on our radio show in an appearance last year. He seems to have found a home at Mickey and Minnie’s. He also consults for other restaurants.

I have met many great chefs, and have pondered the human ingredients that contribute to greatness. Neil is a good and kind human being who is the best pure chef I have ever met.

See you at Mickey and Minnie’s.

JOHN HOOVER SETTLES IN AT THE RICHLAND HOUSE

I am not sure when I first met John Hoover. Maybe it was at the now defunct Stumpo’s in Margate, during a brief meeting in the kitchen. Maybe at Tun Tavern, where he worked awhile for owner Monte Dahm. Maybe in another establishment that I have forgotten.

Recently, Hoover’s father-inlaw, Bill Ferronte, provided him a perfect canvas for his culinary efforts, with the purchase of the Richland House, best known for years as Brassie’s. Brassie’s, on Route 40 in Richland, wasn’t famous for much more than crabs and spaghetti, and a series of owners since then have tried to transform the old structure, some more successful than others. The most recent operation, AJ’s, provided me with one of my worst meals in the last two decades.

The Richland House provides the opposite.

John Hoover is young, goodlooking, and determined in the kitchen. You can feel the energy and the creativity. He tries ingredients together just to see how they work, and wanders the dining room telling guests just how good the soup is that he just made, or the appetizer, or the sauce, or the dessert.

Hoover is working currently with a young assistant, Shawn Anthony Herbert, who – ironically enough – came to him after a brief tenure at AJ’s. Hoover discovered a creative streak in Herbert, and the two of them are spinning out delicious meals.

Recently, for example, we sampled a chutney with watermelon, mango, molasses, and cilantro, and a pina colada coulis with red bell pepper, pineapple, roasted coconut, fried beets, and frangelico. "Gives it a little sunny flavor," said Hoover. The two sauces – the result of experimentation – found their way on various specials during a recent weekend. Either could be a soup or sauce, Hoover agreed.

And the soups. Soups, one after another, are excellent, including a chili made with brisket. Even the chicken wings soar, with excellent sauces, hot and sweet.

One night Hoover was serving sushi, in his restaurant on Route 40 in Richland, where everyone was swearing there was no audience for anything else but crabs and spaghetti.

Wrong. Watch this chef.

THOMAS HOWELL, CHEF AT HI POINT, OPENS HOWELL’S IN POMONA...

Thomas Howell, former chef at Skelly’s Hi Point in Absecon, opened his own restaurant, Howell’s, on the White Horse Pike in Pomona. The restaurant will initially be open for breakfast and lunch, but will open for dinner eventually.

"I have been wanting to do this all of my life," Howell said. " My dad was a chef at Tom Fiore’s Fairmount Inn (now Library III in Egg Harbor Township)." He plans to display some of the menus from the Fairmount Inn, and also Schrul’s, which is now Berkshire Grill.

Howell was the chef at The Hi Point for twelve years. He grew up in Somers Point, and lives in Galloway Township. He worked at Holiday Inn and Howard Johnson’s in Atlantic City, and also at Cousin’s Country House in Egg Harbor Township. He also worked in 1980 at Teplitzky’s, one of a few Kosher facilities in the area some years ago.

The feature at the restaurant will be comfort food, including seafood and specialty breakfast items.

CONGRATULATIONS CARRIE CUSANO AND CHRISTOPHER LAPSLEY

Congratulations and Mazel Tov to Carrie Cusano and Christopher Lapsley on their wedding in July.

Carrie and Christopher were married at the Magic Kingdom in Orlando, Florida. They will reside in California while Christopher continues his education in veterinary medicine. Christopher is the son of Margaret and George Lapsley. George is the staff food safety specialist for Ed Hitzel Enterprises.

DREXEL UNIVERSITY BEGINS CULINARY ARTS PROGRAM AT BURLINGTON COUNTY COLLEGE

Drexel University, at Burlington County College, has opened Bachelor of Science Degree in Culinary Arts program. Now students can earn a Drexel Degree on the Mount Laurel and Mount Holly campuses. We visited during an open house and were impressed by the curriculum. In twenty four months, state of the art culinary labs are due to open in Mount Holly. In the meantime, students will be taking general education courses for the first two years of the program.

The course guide for the second two years of the program includes topics like Culture and Gastronomy, directed study with a master chef, and Food Photography and Styling. A Hospitality Management Bachelor’s Degree will also be available. We are very interested in seeing how the culinary labs will develop, and will keep you posted.

STEW

Wednesday night at Sofia’s in Margate has become a fun evening.

Greek Night, featuring belly dancing, Greek music and authentic Greek cuisine, is attracting revelers...With a light breeze blowing the bride’s veil, Jonathan Karp and his girlfriend Nancy were married during a ceremony on the beach in Ventnor. Karp, former owner of the now-closed Jonathan’s, and now manager at the Continental in Atlantic City, plans to buy a new home....Atlantic City Country Club in Northfield will begin a brunch this month....Placido’s Winery, new in Hammonton, had an open house in August. The new winery is on First Road...Donna Vassallo, seen on our TV show as part of the Belladonnas, and a contributor to our publications, wrote this report: "I finally tried the clambake for two at Phillips. You know how you always talk about it on the radio? John (her husband) and I went two weekends ago – wow – no wonder Craig Laban (Philadelphia Inquirer restaurant critic) liked it so much. It was loaded with fresh seafood and sooo worth the price too." She added: "The calamari salad at The Continental is to die for." Both restaurants are on The Pier at Caesars.

TRUE STORIES WORTH MENTIONING...

On a small island in the central Nile River in Egypt is a Nubian Restaurant. My son and I, last month, visited to savor kris kabob but found the highlight to be Nubian coffee strained through river grass.

As a wine drinker, and one who ends an evening with tea, seldom with coffee, I amazed myself with the great non-burnt dark rich coffee flavors.

Egyptian food was never over-spiced, mostly neutral, and a country that shuns wine provided a culinary delight with a coffee to talk about long after the meal was finished. There are delights to be found everywhere.

- John J. Mahoney

TALE OF A NEW-FOUND FRIEND

Back in college I had a habit of decompressing on breaks by taking long walks. My favorite route was along the railroad tracks, and I could walk for a dozen miles without encountering anyone. Still, on one of these walks I found a lost puppy (true story), a little beagle fella that I decided to take along with me on my walk since we were literally miles from any homes or roads. I found some thin rope at the trackside, fashioned a leash for the dog and set out.

After an hour or so I got to wondering if the dog had eaten recently and decided to leave the tracks and find a deli or something to hook the poor pup up. I did eventually stumble across a 7-11, so I tied the dog to the dumpster outside and went in. There I bought a small can of dog food, a can opener and some crackers for myself.

When I got to the register the clerk there looked at my purchases, hesitated, and slowly rang me up. It took me a moment but I realized the kid was probably thinking I was going to consume the dog food and crackers together, sort of like a vagabond's pate.

Not being a guy to stifle one's imagination I waited for the kid to hand me my change and when he looked me in the eye I simply said, "Everything tastes better on a Ritz...?"

(true story). The kid winced and I thought the poor chap was going to scream. Hooray me.

- Richard Dobbins

ALAN KLIGERMAN TO ADDRESS SJ EPICUREAN SOCIETY...

One of the nation’s premier food scientists will be the guest speaker at the October meeting of the Epicurean Society of Southern New Jersey. Alan Kligerman, inventor of popular products Lactaid and Beano, will be the guest speaker at the society’s monthly dinner meeting on October 8th at Sofia’s Restaurant in Margate.

The meeting is open to the public. Member admission is $10; non members are $25. The fee will include an impressive dinner by Michael Giraldi, the executive chef at Sofia’s, and presentations by Kligerman as well as Steve Rohner, who invented a flavoring stick for coffee and other beverages. There is no need to make a reservation; just show up at the door. For more information, please call Jeff Schwartz at (609) 780-5947. There will also be a belly dancer.

Tubby’s Ice Cream, and Kramer Beverage, presenters from previous meetings, will display and offer products. Simply Fondue of Mays Landing will also have sample products.

The Epicurean Society of Southern New Jersey is a member of the American Culinary Federation. The group meets monthly at various locations, and offers dinners and speakers with the goal of bringing together purveyors, restaurant folks and foodies, and also of raising money for scholarships.

In 1974, Kligerman invented a calcium fortified milk which he called Lactaid, and which he sold to Johnson and Johnson in 1991. It is still the largest seller in the United States and allows those people intolerant to dairy products to consume those products.

He also developed Beano, an enzyme product aiding in digestion of numerous vegetables. This brand is also largest in the field, and was sold to Block Drug Company in 1997.

His current company, Akpharma, makes and markets several other specialty products centered on food acid neutralization and other significant medical applications.

His businesses have always been in or near Atlantic City. His father started Kligerman Dairies in Atlantic City in 1918. Alan Kligerman studied dairy science at Cornell University; he left the dairy in 1957 and eventually started the SugarLo Company, which made and sold dietary ice cream in the United States and Canada. He has received numerous awards and honorary degrees.

The September dinner took place at Renault Winery, where former SenatorWilliam Gormley was the speaker. The November dinner meeting will take place at the Golden Inn in Avalon.

MORE STEW

Café Madison in Riverside is kicking off its wine dinner program with a Silver Oak Wine Dinner on October 30th...Buckalew’s in Beach Haven will be hosting a fund raiser for Mordecai Island, a small island in the bay which acts as a buffer for Beach Haven. It is eroding. The event is Saturday, October 6th. It will be a wine dinner, featuring Mark H. Metzger as guest speaker. Please call for reservations...

We were dining out at a very new local spot which is working out its kinks. We were forgiving, so we waited an uncomfortably long time before the initial visit of anyone to take our drink order. I finally flagged down a busboy and asked him to send over our waiter, to which he proudly replied, "We do not have waiters here; we have service professionals." I, taken aback, responded, "Then may I speak with the chief operations officer in charge of order taking and food distribution for this table?" The kid, without batting a lash, quickly retorted, "Ok, I will get your waiter."

Ed Hitzel is publisher of Ed Hitzel's Restaurant Magazine as well as Ed Hitzel's Restaurant Newsletter. He is also host of "Table for One" radio show, heard Saturdays from 10 am to 1 pm on Newstalk 1400 WOND. You can access information about Ed Hitzel enterprises at edhitzel.com For more information about Ed Hitzel publications call 609-909-9755.