Restaurant News - by Jeffrey Schwartz
Meeting Rudy Guiliani at the
Seaville Diner...
(A collection of vignettes from Ed Hitzel's Restaurant Newsletter. Ed Hitzel is
on vacation this month.)
December 2007/January 2008
My cell phone rang on this soon-to-be
exciting Tuesday afternoon when Rob
Ohlsen, owner of the Buck Tavern in
Corbin City and Founder/First Vice
President of the Epicurean Society of
Southern New Jersey, showed up on
my Blackberry. When Rob calls, my
mind quickly races to the subjects he
might like to discuss. Would it be to
meet him at Coffee Etc. where we talk
about ways to solve the world's problems,
the Epicurean Society (I am the
Founder/President of this rapidly-growing
chapter of the American Culinary
Federation), or the business
climate in general as
I also own a restaurant,
the Red Sky Café in Seaville.
Lo and behold, it
was none of the above! Rob was calling
me from Dino's Diner in Seaville to
share the news that Rudy Giuliani was
coming to town on his way to Congress
Hall in Cape May. My wife Greta and I
are political and history junkies so the
opportunity to see presidential hopeful
Mr. Giuliani, who I have been a fan of
since he turned around New York City,
was a moment I did not want to miss.
While Rob was eating his second
turkey club and a piece of pie,
alternating between each other, I
ordered some damn good rice pudding,
as we sat in the booth closest to the
main entrance of Dino's. The press
from all over the state was here, including
the papers and television, anticipating
his arrival at any moment.
Then it happened. I peered out
the window and the black limo driving
America's Mayor arrived! He smiled
and shook hands with anyone within
reach as he exited the vehicle and started
to walk into Dino's. In the meantime,
his bodyguards came in before he
did to check the restaurant out. I eyed
them over carefully and felt that if I
had to take one of Rudy's guards on I
would have no issues as I am getting
my second-degree black belt in May,
and I can adapt to street or ground
fighting. I guess they have a little
advantage though with those darn guns.
Oh well. Then the Mayor walked in to
a rousing applause from the locals that
was truly heartfelt. Rob and I stood up
and honestly, I was caught up in this
emotional moment. Rob was clapping
with one hand as he would not let go of
the pie for fear that I would grab it. Mr.
Giuliani then turned to our table and
shook hands with Rob and me.
How could I forget the best
part! Mr. Mayor asked me my name
and could he count on me for his election
campaign. I replied that out of disgust
with the two-party system in
which it is getting more difficult to tell
the good guys from the bad I went down to the Board of Elections over a
year ago and joined the Libertarian
Party. The Libertarian Party stands for
personal responsibility and the
Constitution, which is being taken apart
by the two-party system. He agreed
with my statement, and said that he has
a long road ahead of him, but will do
all in his power to get out of this partisan
quagmire we are currently in. I
assured Rudy that I will support him
and do what I can to help him get the
Republican nomination. He gave Rob
and me a firm handshake and thanked
both of us. I invited Mr. Mayor to the
Red Sky Cafe for some good eats for
dinner but his schedule did not allow it.
Rudy is going to have a go of it against
the extreme right of the Republican
Party, but it is the center that has to pull
together to help get him elected.
He spoke to us for a couple of
minutes, had a picture taken with us,
and then moved to the next table.
September 11th was a traumatic
experience for New York City, its
people and the country as a whole.
In one day it changed the
United States as we have known it. We
were glued to the television as the
repeated images of the Twin Towers
fell before our eyes. Then Mayor
Giuliani appeared for his news conferences
on the terrorism that took place
on our soil, the loss of our fellow countrymen,
three thousand people from all
walks of life.
His same tone of voice that he
used during America's most recent
tragedy he used as he spoke to Rob and
me at Dino's.
Friends, it does not matter if
you are a Republican or Democrat.
Stay open minded and, as a clear thinking
individual, look at the issues our
country faces and vote from a logical
standpoint with a focused point of
view.
(Jeffrey Schwartz, is president
of the Epicurean Society of Southern
New Jersey, a chapter of the American
Culinary Federation Chapter, and
owner of Red Sky Cafe, Seaville.)
A VISIT TO LA CAMPAGNOLA
ON A SATURDAY NIGHT
We remember four things
about La Campagnola, all of them edible,
all of them delicious: zuppa di
pesce, mussels in fra diavolo sauce,
southwestern beef soup with scallions
(missing), and french onion soup.
We visited this unique restaurant
in the Pine Barrens on a Saturday
night, which is not like us. We usually
avoid busy restaurants on weekends.
But somehow we ended up in this
classy, completely full facility on Oak
Shade Road in Shamong. We found it
by accident.
Our server was a sweet and
accommodating young woman who
apologized to us for glacial service.
The extremely slow pace of the meal
did not bother us, as we were talking
and enjoying the night out. We did
decide against ordering entrees, figuring
we would return on a night when
the customers were fewer and the pace
was a little quicker.
EPICUREAN GROUP PLANS
CHRISTMAS PARTY
The Epicurean Society of
Southern New Jersey plans its
Christmas party for the Station House
in Tuckahoe. The event - open to the
public - is at 7pm on December 14th.
Tickets are $65 for non-members, $50
for members. The event will include a
festive atmosphere, a feast and music
by Dr. Bobbie Fingers. For more information,
contact Jeff Schwartz at (609)
780-5947 or Robert Ohlsen at (609)
374-1911.
PROFESSIONALS CHEFS
ASSOCIATION EVENTS
The Professional Chefs
Association of South Jersey will hold
its annual Christmas party at Blue
Heron Pines on Tuesday Dec. 11th. See
the website pcasj.com for more information.
The January 8th meeting is at
the Ram's Head Inn.
May the spirit of this wonderful
season bring you great food, great
friends and a fine 2008.
ATHENS CAFÉ IN CHERRY
HILL IS NOW KUZINA BY
SOFIA
The Athens Café, the popular
Greek eatery in Cherry Hill, is now
Kuzina by Sofia. Newly renovated to
look more European, the 49-seat
BYOB is owned by Sofia Karkasidou
and her husband, Assad Khoury.
Karkasidou is a Greek native
who used to work in the fashion business
and later attended culinary school
there. She formerly worked at Athena's
in Northfield and Lucien's Manor in
Clementon.
The menu features authentic
tastes of Sofia's native Thessaloniki,
Greece, with its fresh and healthy
Mediterranean fare. Entrees are $15 to
$20. Gyros and pita sandwiches also
are available. A takeout menu is now
being developed. It's open seven days a
week for lunch and dinner.
Kuzina by Sofia is located in
the Sawmill Shopping Center on Route
70 in Cherry Hill. The phone number is
(856) 429-1061.
A TASTE OF SAIGON
OPENS IN SEWELL
New to Sewell is Taste of
Saigon, a white-tablecloth Vietnamese
BYOB. The moderately-priced restaurant
features familiar Vietnamese fare,
including bun and pho, as well as a few
Thai specialties. Highlights of the menu
are Saigon-style filet mignon, a stir-fry
with caramelized onions served over
lettuce, and French-style shrimp
sauteed in white wine, tomato paste,
and caramelized onions.
Co-owners Quan Luu, Peter
Tat, and Fong To emigrated from
Vietnam in 1979. The family has been
working in southern New Jersey hotels.
This is their first venture as restaurateurs.
Taste of Saigon is open
Tuesday through Friday for lunch and
dinner, and for dinner only Saturday
and Sunday. It's located at 279-A Egg
Harbor Road in Sewell's New Market
Shopping Center. The phone number is
(856) 256-7700.
MARK PLATZER OPENS
PINSETTER'S
The former Maple Bowl in
Pennsauken has reopened as Pinsetter's
Bar & Bowl. The new owner is Mark
Platzer, brother of Bob Platzer, president
of the PJW Restaurant Group, the
company that owns and operates the
many P.J. Whelihan's pubs, the Chop
House in Gibbsboro, and other local
eateries.
The 30,000-square-foot bowling
center seats forty in the bar and
another seventy in the full-service dining
room. There's a wait staff serving
casual eats, such as fresh salads, wraps,
quesadillas, and burgers, as well as
appetizers.
The family-friendly restaurant
is open for lunch and dinner. Platzer,
who grew up in Pennsauken, also plans
to add a soda pop counter for kids to
enjoy. After completely gutting the
space and making it "googie," the
owner wants people to come to
Pinsetter's whether they're bowlers or
not. "Googie" is an early post-World
War II style popularized by the
California car culture of the time. It
features bold retro design and plenty of
signage.
Pinsetter's Bar & Bowl is
located at 7111 Maple Ave. in
Pennsauken. The phone number is
(856) 665-3377.
CLASSIC CAKE COMPANY
WINS CENTER'S COMPETITION
Cherry Hill's Classic Cake
Company won the top honor at the
National Constitution Center's Cake-
Off in Philadelphia. Designed to capture
the significance of the U.S.
Constitution, the winning cake featured
three tiers representing our country's
three branches of government.
Adorned with miniature
chocolate liberty bells and a confectionary
Constitution scroll replica, the
cake was created by Robert Bennett,
executive chef of AHB Foods, parent
company of Classic Cake. AHB Foods
is a national manufacturer of high-end,
fresh and par-baked artisan breads and
dessert specialties, including gelato,
sorbet, cakes, pastries, chocolates, and
cookies.
As part of this honor, Classic
Cake also was asked to create a cake
for the Constitution Day luncheon and
received an invitation to attend the
2007 Liberty Bell Ceremony held on
September 27th that honored Bono for
his humanitarian work.
BEAU RIVAGE IS NOW
BEAU STEAK AND
SEAFOOD
Beau Rivage has reinvented
itself again. Although it was recently
no longer a full-service, "jackets
required" French restaurant, Chef Scott
Bergman and company have expanded
the menu and renamed the restaurant.
The longtime award-winning restaurant
is now called Beau Steak and Seafood.
Beau Steak and Seafood
opened in September 2007 and offers a
more extensive menu. It features a
larger variety of prime cuts of beef,
new entrees such as free range chicken,
a grilled nature veal chop, and a 5-
pound lobster selection.
Its bistro is still going strong,
with its lighter fare and extensive wine
list. Beau Stake and Seafood is open
for lunch Tuesday through Friday, and
for dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
The bistro is open Tuesday through
Sunday. The restaurant is located at
128 Taunton Boulevard in Medford.
The phone number is (856) 983-1999.
LIN GLATT KOSHER CHINESE
NEW AT GARDEN
STATE PAVILIONS
New to Cherry Hill's Garden
State Pavilions shopping center is Lin
Glatt Kosher Chinese Restaurant. It
features a menu that's under strict rabbinical
supervision by Organized
Kashrus Laboratories. Its large menu
features chicken, beef, veal, fried rice,
lo mein, chow mein, and vegetable
entrees. There's also a takeout menu,
frozen items, and catering available.
Most entrees are $12.95 and
include rice. The restaurant is open
Sunday through Thursday from 11am
to 9pm, Friday from 11am to two hours
before Sabbath, and on Saturdays one
hour after Sabbath to 11pm.
Lin Glatt Kosher Chinese
Restaurant is located at Garden State
Pavilions (ShopRite Plaza), 2230
Route 70 West in Cherry Hill. For
more information, call (856) 488-3555
or visit the restaurant's website at
koshe88.com.
FORMER PACIFIC GRILLE
IS NOW MARCELLO'S
FRESH CATCH PAVILION
Mount Laurel's Pacific Grille
is now Marcello's Fresh Catch Bistro.
The owners, who also run Marcello's
Ristorante and Pizzeria in Marlton,
have completely redone the space. It
now has a waiting area with bar tables
whimsically topped with tropical-fish
bowls. Most menu items are $20 at the
BYOB but are available in half sizes
for half the price from 11 a.m. on.
Marcello's Fresh Catch Bistro
is located at 1200 Church Street
(Village II Shoppes) in Mount Laurel.
The phone number is (856) 778-2200.
FAT JACK'S BBQ EXPANDS
TO AUDUBON
Fat Jack's BBQ now has a
fourth location on Black Horse Pike in
Audubon. Owned by Glenn A. Gross,
CEO/President and Pitmaster, the minifranchise
also has three other locations,
in Blackwood, Washington Township,
and at Lincoln Financial Field in
Philadelphia.
Fat Jack's BBQ has received
more than 125 local awards for its ribs,
shoulder, brisket, chili, wings, and
sauce. The new location, like the others,
offers eat-in and takeout services.
Specialties of the house are Memphis
pulled chicken, hickory smoked pork
ribs, Carolina pulled pork, Texas beef
brisket, and down home country
sides.
For more information,
please visit fatjacks.net.
DINNER AT MORTON'S
STEAKHOUSE...
By JOHN MAHONEY
The Morton's Steak Bible, a 240-page cookbook written by Klaus Fritsch
with Mary Goodbody, was included in the $99 cost of Morton's Steakhouse's first
Cooking with the Chef's wine dinner.
Chef Michael, head chef at Morton's of Atlantic City, which is located in
Caesar's Casino, played host and teacher for the eighteen very inquisitive diners in the
private boardroom. All were seated Dionysian Society style, with everyone on the
outside of a large U and the chef-instructor right across the table from everyone.
Every detail of the four-course meal was personally prepared by chef
Michael. Guests turned from page to page to review the recipes in the Steak Bible as
chef Michael demonstrated his dedication to detail and personal techniques, such as
slowly pouring the oil for the salad dressing or showing how to keep crab chunks
large by limiting the amount in the container. He taught, answered questions, had
guests read, and made everyone feel like they were in his own home.
While Cynthia Walker, of Ventnor, read directions, the appetizer course was
prepared. The miniature crab cake was paired
with the 2004 D'Arenbur, Hermit Crab, Viognier.
One flavor married with the other, and the thumb-sized
crab chunks laced with a hint of breadcrumbs highlighted
the peach-pit aroma of the very dry Viognier. Most places
would have paired it with a Sauvignon Blanc, so I knew a
lot of thought was put into the evening food adventure.
The Caesar salad, with Morton's classic dressing, was paired with the 2004
Simi Chardonnay, a fragrant white wine from the Russian River area in Sonoma County.
Wine will not help a strongly vinegar-based salad, but with balsamic vinegars, the fuller
white will add to the experience.
Chef Michael covered every detail about preparing the grilled Peruvian asparagus
which accompanied the filet mignon, garnished in diane sauce and roasted to a
medium rare perfection. Although I would have served an Argentinean Malbec with this
course, the 2005 Bearboat Pinot Noir from California did dance divinely with the
asparagus.
Watching chef Michael prepare Morton's legendary hot chocolate cake showed
us all his dedication and enthusiasm for his work. When the hot inner chocolate did not
run out of the cake for a few guests, the chef explained exactly what timing mistake was
made back in the kitchen, and made the dessert course an important element of the class.
Many guests had coffee immediately with the chocolate cake, but many wine-savvy diners
enjoyed the dessert with the Quinta de Noval Tawny Port and enjoyed a greater dining
experience.
All Ports, Tawny, Ruby, L.B.V.'s, and Vintage Ports will go with dark chocolate
so the pairing was a good one. Morton's sommelier did a fine job enhancing chef
Michael's creations.
Full loaves of Morton's homemade bread were served for every four people,
and water glasses were quickly refilled with icy water without having to ask. Even
though the meal was a teaching experience, no one had to take a test before leaving.
Maria Lewis, hostess for the evening, explained that she wanted to offer a
series of food teaching experiences during the winter. The next boardroom experience
will be in December, and a visit to www.mortons.com will provide information
about making reservations.
(John Mahoney writes about wine for Ed Hitzel publications and can be heard
on his radio show and seen on his television show.)
Ed Hitzel is publisher of Ed Hitzel's Restaurant Magazine as well as Ed Hitzel's Restaurant Newsletter. He is also host of "Table for One" radio show, heard Saturdays from 10 am to 1 pm on Newstalk 1400 WOND. You can access information about Ed Hitzel enterprises at edhitzel.com. For more information about Ed Hitzel publications call 609-909-9755.
